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This crag lies in the Sax area, just off the toll-free road.
It's main attraction is as a lower grade crag. It has some worthwhile routes of grade 3-4
as well as a number of fine two pitch 5/5+'s , although there is very little above about
6b. This makes it an ideal venue for climbers operating at more modest grades, or as a
"rest day" for the more insatiable.
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Maika (4+) Thanks to Chris Craggs for this Photo
Photo © Chris Craggs |
The crag is situated in a quiet little side valley offering pleasant
views, and has a South-easterly aspect, making it ideal
for those early/late season visits.
The topo's in the Craggs guide sometimes lack detail, but this is not a
big problem here as several obvious features help with location of routes. A fine white
pillar on the left of the crag is home to a couple of good easier routes, before things
get a little steeper and meaner as one goes to the right. After a deep bay of orange rock
the main face extends for about thirty metres, and here we find the best routes on offer.
A shallow half height cave in the middle of the face acts as the stance
for several routes which converge on this point, before continuing up independent lines
above.
Thanks to Stuart Greenall for all these
details.
 | The crag has been recently rebolted. |
| Both top pitches of Capicua are very short on bolts, but are easy climbing. |
| The grades may be easier than most, but this is a magical crag! |
Thanks to Ian Silvester for the above three items.
| This is a south facing crag in a very dry valley with absolutely no shade so watch it on
a hot day. I spent a day climbing there on a hot day in the first week in October and
virtually melted. |
| This crag is an absolute must for those climbing in the F4 - F5 grades with a whole
plethora of excellent climbs in this grade. |
| If you are interested in climbing at this crag you will need either the Chris Crags
guide or the local Spanish Vinalopo guide. See The Guides
page for details of these two guides.
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RockFax Routes Database
Check out the Marin
page of the RockFax Routes Database for details of routes at Marin.
My Favourite Route
| Route: Petreles - F5, F4+ |
Description: This route follows the obvious chimney that splits the left hand side of
the crag. It starts off with an interesting overhang and then winds its way up the chimney
and the face to the right. An interesting climb for its whole length which has the feeling
of a more trad route with its line following such a distinct feature.
Your Favourite Routes
| Route: Prats
Description: A lovely 2 pitch 4+/4 route. The first pitch is a delicate (for the grade)
slab, and here's the tip; for the second pitch, follow the bolt line you can see from the
stance not the description in Chris Craggs' guide. This takes you on a short traverse
right above the huge cave - incredible position for the grade!
Name: Ian Silvester |
Note from Me: I am pretty sure the 2nd pitch that Ian describes here is actually the
2nd pitch of Placa Gris at F5+ so be sure that you can climb at this grade if you want to
follow Ian's route. I would highly recommend this 2nd pitch whether you do it as part of
Prats or Placa Gris. It is a classic feeling as you traverse from climbing beside the cave
to being above it. Exposure here we come!!
The cave in the photo is the stance for Placa Gris.
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| Route: "Jake Mate"- F5, F5 |
Description: This takes the direct line into, and out of the cave, and
is the best route on this part of the crag. The start is steep and mean for the grade, and
a high first and second bolt make it a little bold, but it then eases slightly and the
cave has a bomb-proof wire thread belay. A bulge directly above the cave looks committing,
but, fortunately, it has good holds. After this the angle eases to a delightful slab,
which runs all the way to the top. Escape by making two abseil down the line of the route.
Name: Stuart Greenall
| Route: jhonny - F3+, F4 |
Description: A lovely (easy!) route up the left end of the main face at
Marin. It has a nice open feel and amazing views for miles. Fully bolted. The
first (3+) pitch is great for early forays into leading.
Name: Carolyn Scott
Vote for own Favourite
Vote for your own favourite routes by using this page: Favourite
Routes.
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The view from Marin. The distinctive, square cut mountain is called El Cid and contains
a Via Ferrata.
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