Without doubt one of the classic areas to climb in the Costa Blanca. A dirt road leads
up into a beautifully remote valley. On all sides loom the crags that make Sella such a
popular place to climb. You may even meet some Spanish climbing here.
||Sella valley - Looking across to Pared de Rosalia
Thanks to Simon Fox
||The impressive mass of the Divino
The huge number of routes here could fill a whole weeks holiday on their own. Perhaps a
little limited if you are only leading to 5+, but hell this is sports climbing at its
finest, so start pushing those grades.
SECTOR WILD SIDE - ACCESS
There have been various problems over the past couple of years with access to this crag following the purchase of the land surrounding the crag by the new owner. This has resulted in the belief that climbing is now banned there but this is not really the case.
The owner of the land at the base of the crag and the access routes is Mr Sjaak (pron. Jack) Bleijlevens. He is a very reasonable person with a
strong interest in ecological issues, which probably explains his position. He had become tired of all the littering, noise and defecation of the climbers using the crag which prompted his actions to RESTRICT access. However, if people want to climb at the crag it is still possible
You must ask permission of Sjaak before climbing. He lives in the house to the right of the caravan and drives a white Suzuki 4X4.
If he is NOT there do NOT climb, come back another day. If he finds you climbing there without permission he will ask you to leave..
Do NOT ask other climbers for permission, they are not in a position to say yes or no. Go and see Sjaak yourself.
When visiting the crag park in the area just through the gates if they are unlocked, then WALK up to his house
He will allow access to small groups who he likes the look of.
Thanks to Nick Gant & Alan James for providing this information.
- If your aim is to climb on the Rhino then park at the refuge.
- Otherwise drive up the dirt lane, past the refuge and round the bend, to the the first
car park and save yourself the 5 minute walk in. The dirt road is passable even if it
doesn't seem it at first glance. Even the hire cars can make it.
- This is becoming an extremely popular climbing area and can get quite busy at weekends.
Save yourself any queuing and make it one of you weekday destinations. Unless, of course,
you are trying to meet fellow climbers.
RockFax Routes Database
Check out the Sella
page of the RockFax Routes Database for details of routes at
My Favourite Route
Pequnecos II F5 - This is a lovely route in its grade. Sustained, after the first
10ft, and a makes maximum use of a single ropes length. As is the way of these things
Chris Craggs's book calls this route Pequenecos 3 and gives it 4+. Note that Chris
Craggs's book also uses what he details as a Spanish grading system which places 4+ as
equivalent to F5. (See The Guides for further details). He
also details it as a 2 pitch route but says the 2nd is somewhat disappointing which is
probably why RockFax only shows it as a single pitch. Well I'm glad that's all completely
Route: Marion 5+, 4, 4+
Description: 3 very steep pitches. Hanging stances on old pegs just adds to the fun. A
must for any HVS/E1 leader.
Name: Sam Butler
[Author's Note: The first pitch is now getting quite polished. 2nd & 3rd
pitches are ok.]
- Sector Al Final (Sector Ojo De Odra - Chris Craggs)
Route: El Pixoncet 6a+ (El Pitxocet 6a - Chris Craggs)
Description: Great 6a steep wall climbing. I like it 'cos it's the hardest I've climbed
there! Keep going as it doesn't let up. Try also Speedy Gonzalez next door.
Name: Pete Stone
Route: Y Tu ? Quien Eres? 6a
Description: Steepish 6a, lots of pockets,
little steep bit at top, joy!
Name: Anne C
Route: Fisura Con Finura 6a
Description: No description needed.... Nice layback
Route: Kamikaze 7a+
Description: Great route, easy for the grade possibly 7a+ ! small
holds on the steep section but never too desperate, just make sure you shake
out when you can, good luck.
Name: Malcolm Mills Davies
Vote for own Favourite
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