Translated into English, this mean "the big golden head". It is the perfect
place to climb in the summer, as it is in shade until 3pm. Of course do not go there in
Thanks to Maria Diaz Garcia.
|| Via Gene, John Brayshaw at the abseil
Thanks to Chris Heald
Chris Craggs describes this as the first mountain on your left as you travel up the
motorway from Alicante towards Benidorm. He describes one 7 pitch F5 route on
the west face but adds that there are many other traditional routes. The latest
Rockfax has a few more details. They cover a few long mountain routes that
require trad gear as well as a range of rock hard single pitch sport routes.
There are now a couple of topos to this mountain on the web:
|You can find a guide to the mountain on the Desnivel's Crag
Finder. Click on Valencian Community and find Cabezo
de Oro (Busot) in the list. This
contains topos reproduced from an article that appeared in the magazine
some time ago. Unfortunately these are rather small. There is an English
version of the crag finder.|
Thanks to David Mora Garcia for
|There is also a guide
to the mountain on the Alicante
page of the Costa
Blanca Rock website.|
Here are some tips for Via Gene kindly supplied by Chris Heald who did the
The Chris Craggs info is generally good. What I would add is-
The track is not driveable for as far as Chris Craggs recommends-even in a hire
car. Instead drive along the track for about 1/1.5k and park on the left just before a
steep and very rocky section of track. Walk along the track to the first house
on the left (ex hermitage?). 3km in total..............
-At the end of pitch 2 there is now a peg aand new bolt.
-At the top of pitch 4 there is an abseil sstation at the base of the wall on the
-Pitch 5 - Move up...a short distance and ggo left to the bottom of a groove
seamed with black rock. Keep traversing left into a smoother
-For the abseil, as described, double ropess are recommended. The ground can then be
reached in two abseils. The lower part of the abseil wall is very steep and I would not
want to be setting up on "two bolt hangers" on this lower wall.
-The scree descent takes about ten minutes,, but is very rough. We didn't find a
"path" down it.
-There may now be an alternative descent. AAt the col there is a new looking
chain on the amphitheatre side. From this you could abseil into the amphitheatre( NB
We did not go down this way, so I do not know how far it would be.)
At the bottom of the amphitheatre is a large single tree on the edge. Do a short
abseil from this to the chain/abseil station near the top of pitch 4. From here abseil
left (looking out) down slabs to the ground.
Thanks to Chris Heald for the photos and all these details
Vote for own Favourite
Vote for your own favourite routes by using this page: Favourite
||Via Gene, John Ward and Richard Tomlison on pitch 6
Via Gene, Second belay