Other Crags
Home Up Altea Cabezon de Oro Echo Valley El Aventador Forada Gandia Marin Mascarat Gorge Moraira Sea Cliffs Olta Pena Rubia Penon d'Ifach Puig Campana Salem Segaria Sella Toix Other Crags

 

This page will contain all those routes and areas, recommended by visitors to this site, that I have not yet visited. It will basically be up to you lot to fill this page so get submitting those favourites.

Index

1. Tozal de Levante, Torre de Enmedio & El Ponoch
2. Reconco
3. Jalon Valley
4. Guadalest Valley

 

Tozal de Levante, Torre de Enmedio & El Ponoch

Mike Appleton on Gorillas (6c), Ponoch
Thanks to Chris Craggs for this photo
Photo Chris Craggs

Near the village of Polop lies the mountain of Ponoch, which is easily visible from almost anywhere around Benidorm. It only has a single summit but the huge east facing wall is composed of three buttresses. From left to right these are: the Tozal de Levante (Tower of the East Wind?) with about 14 routes up to 340m, then the Torre de Enmedio (Middle Tower) with about 7 routes up to 400m, and to the right (and nearest the road) Ponoig or Ponoch with about 40 routes up to 450m.

Thanks to Chris Craggs for these details

The first two of these buttresses, Tozal de Levante and Torre de Enmedio contain very long aided routes.

Thanks to David Mora Garcia for this detail

There are some very brief details in both the Chris Craggs and RockFax guides, including a couple of routes. Chris Craggs mentions that there is no other guide to the area however since then a local guide has been produced, Guia de Escalada del Ponoig, so check out the details on The Spanish Guidebooks page.

Below and to the left of this mighty mountain is a scattered set of crags known collectively as the Sombra de Leon (or Shadow of the Lion). These crags contain a reasonable number of single pitch routes of all grades. There is a topo for the crags on the Costa Blanca Rock website under the Calpe page.

Reconco

'The central sector is brilliant - well bolted, stunning rock, beautiful setting - but can be a bit cold as its in a big valley high up. (at the end of November). About an hour from Benidorm.'

Thanks to Peter Robinson for these details

 

Jalon Valley 

(Known as Marina Alta in Chris Craggs)

This valley is an easy drive North of Calpe and has a number of smaller crags.

Font D'Axia

bulletA small crag but in a wonderfully remote setting - 8 or so routes with a spread of grades from 4 up to 7.
bulletFrom the parking described in both guides, make sure you take the rougher path immediately opposite the car park, not the wider metalled road that goes up the hill next to it.

Thanks to Ian Silvester for these 2 points.

 

Guadalest Valley

First ascent of Costillo del Perro, Gossos Crag - E1 5b
Photo Tom Phillips

The famous and somewhat overlooked Guadalest valley has steadily seen some development work over the last couple of years, details of which can be found on the Abdet website. 

Two new areas have been developed: the Guadalest boulders (which aren't bouldering routes) and the El Flare area. The guide for El Flare looks particularly professionally done and is now approaching 70 routes mainly 5s and 6s and mainly bolted. Work continues at El Flare.

Warning

It should be noted that there is some concern about the access situation at Guadalest. Several people have report being asked to leave from this area. It might be worth treating it with some caution until the situation is totally clarified.

Favourite Routes

bulletCrag: Reconco

Route: Desconeguda 5, 5+

Description: The first pitch consists of a fantastic 90' flake crack during which the bolts seem like an intrusion , interrupting the rhythm of the climbing . The second pitch pulls out round a bulge before continuing up in the same vein. Possibly the best 5+ I've done in Spain . In fact the crag is an excellent venue for climbers operating in the 5th and 6th grades.

Name: Stuart Greenall

bulletCrag: Jalon Valley, L'Ocaive

Route: Sector Placas Tochas

Description: Not a vote for a single route but for all 6 routes on this section, grades 4 to 6a (6b????). Lots of pockets, well-placed bolts (even if you're short), slabs and steeper bits.

Name: Anne C

bulletCrag: Ibi

Route: Show de Yemas, 6b+

Description: Start with a cool dyno (if u want).

Name: David (local climber)