This page will contain all those routes and areas, recommended by visitors to this site,
that I have not yet visited. It will basically be up to you lot to fill this page so get
submitting those favourites.
1. Tozal de Levante, Torre de Enmedio & El Ponoch
3. Jalon Valley
4. Guadalest Valley
Tozal de Levante, Torre de Enmedio & El Ponoch
Mike Appleton on Gorillas (6c), Ponoch
Thanks to Chris Craggs for this photo
Photo © Chris Craggs
Near the village of Polop lies the mountain of Ponoch, which is easily
visible from almost anywhere around Benidorm. It only has a single summit but
the huge east facing wall is composed of three buttresses. From left to right
these are: the Tozal de Levante (Tower of the East Wind?) with about 14 routes
up to 340m, then the Torre de Enmedio (Middle Tower) with about 7 routes up to
400m, and to the right (and nearest the road) Ponoig or Ponoch with about 40
routes up to 450m.
Thanks to Chris Craggs for these details
The first two of these buttresses, Tozal de Levante and Torre de Enmedio contain
very long aided routes.
Thanks to David Mora Garcia for this detail
There are some very brief details in both the Chris Craggs and
RockFax guides, including a couple of routes. Chris Craggs mentions that there is no other
guide to the area however since then a local guide has been produced, Guia de Escalada del
Ponoig, so check out the details on The
Spanish Guidebooks page.
Below and to the left of this mighty mountain is a scattered set of crags known
collectively as the Sombra de Leon (or Shadow of the Lion). These crags contain a
reasonable number of single pitch routes of all grades. There is a topo for the crags on
the Costa Blanca Rock
website under the Calpe page.
'The central sector is brilliant - well bolted, stunning rock, beautiful setting - but
can be a bit cold as its in a big valley high up. (at the end of November). About an hour
Thanks to Peter Robinson for these details
(Known as Marina Alta in Chris Craggs)
This valley is an easy drive North of Calpe and has a number of smaller crags.
|A small crag but in a wonderfully remote setting - 8 or so routes with a spread of
grades from 4 up to 7.|
|From the parking described in both guides, make sure you take the rougher path
immediately opposite the car park, not the wider metalled road that goes up the hill next
Thanks to Ian Silvester for these 2 points.
First ascent of Costillo del Perro, Gossos Crag - E1 5b
Photo © Tom Phillips
The famous and somewhat overlooked Guadalest valley has steadily seen
some development work over the last couple of years, details of which can be found on the Abdet
Two new areas have been developed: the Guadalest boulders (which aren't bouldering routes) and the El Flare area. The guide for El Flare looks
particularly professionally done and is now approaching 70 routes – mainly 5’s and 6’s and mainly bolted.
Work continues at El Flare.
It should be noted that there is some concern
about the access situation at Guadalest. Several people have report being
asked to leave from this area. It might be worth treating it with some
caution until the situation is totally clarified.
Route: Desconeguda 5, 5+
Description: The first pitch consists of a fantastic 90' flake crack during which the
bolts seem like an intrusion , interrupting the rhythm of the climbing . The second pitch
pulls out round a bulge before continuing up in the same vein. Possibly the best 5+ I've
done in Spain . In fact the crag is an excellent venue for climbers operating in the 5th
and 6th grades.
Name: Stuart Greenall
|Crag: Jalon Valley, L'Ocaive|
Route: Sector Placas Tochas
Description: Not a vote for a single route but for all 6 routes on this section, grades 4
to 6a (6b????). Lots of pockets, well-placed bolts (even if you're short), slabs and
Name: Anne C
Route: Show de Yemas, 6b+
Description: Start with a cool dyno (if u want).
Name: David (local climber)