South Face

Clicked on the outlined areas for descriptions of the routes in that area.

Directions

Off the motorway at the Ondarra turn off, go north towards El Verger on the N332, past Ondarra at a left hand bend there is a turn off to the left for Sagra, immediately pass one very small side road and after 100mts is another, take this and go under the motorway. After this Segaria public park is clearly signposted.

By the way it is clearly marked on the Michelin green Costa Blanca 1/130000 road map as Serra de Segaria, its in square 1H.

Important Note:

The map in Rockfax has a mistake on it. The road leading to the crag actually branches off the road to Beniarbeig before it goes under the A7. Not off the N332 as shown.

Google Maps

I have produced a Google map of how to get to the South Face from the AP-7 motorway. The roads around Ondarra have changed a lot recently so check this out if you are at all interested in visiting this crag.

    It is worth viewing this in the hybrid mode. You can select this using the buttons at the top right of the image.
    The red lines represent the walk in, the green lines the drive.
    The blue lines represent the drive in to the Segaria Barranco Buttresses.
    Click on either the lines or the placemarkers () for further information.

Character

	Entirely south facing with virtually no shade.
	Mainly multi-pitch routes
	Trad routes. There are absolutely no bolts on this area of the ridge.
	These are very new routes and none of them have been climbed very often. All routes should be tackled with this in mind as there is still some loose rock.
	1/2 hour walk in, mostly mostly straight up. It can be a fairly hard grind on a hot day as there is little shade on the approach path.
	Oddly stratified limestone with various protruding buttresses at fairly forgiving angles. These give many easier graded routes around the S - E1 range.

Tips

	Bring plenty of water. Between the uphill walk in and the lack of shade water is vital.
	The position that 'Kate' is written on the rock is incorrect for the route. It should be on the smaller buttress to the left of where it's written. The Rockfax guide has it correct.
	The top pitch of Peter Pan can be quite windy and both bottom and top stances are somewhat tucked back from the edge. This makes communication extremely hard. (I sat on the 2nd stance for half an hour before I finally convinced myself that Al must have topped out and was taking in not still climbing). So if it is at all windy it is probably worth agreeing some signal of rope tugs to indicate 'safe' and 'climb when ready' before setting off.

Central Buttress

This is the huge grey 350ft high buttress almost directly above the Segaria Public Park.; a good cairned path leads from the car park to the foot of the crag in about 25 minutes. BE WARNED, the rock quality is very good but generally the protection is rather sparse, Spanish grades are suggested but the English grades are probably more appropriate.

All routes on the crag have their names written discreetly at the bottom. Virtually every route is worth stars at 'say' Dovedale standards. The routes are described L to R but using the 4 trunked tree of I have A Cunning Plan as a reference point.

Descent
Hopefully very soon abseil stations will be established to facilitate an easy descent, (55mt double ropes will be necessary, and more than one abseil) these will be found by following a series of typically Spanish red blobs from the top of the routes. Until they are, descent is by ascending the talus ground above the crag and going left (west) to the col where a marked path leads back to the foot of the crag. Follow the white paint.

Black Adder Area

The Black Adder area forms the far left hand end of the Central Buttress. This currently contains a few short routes most of which lead to a large ledge. At the far right hand end of this ledge is a useful tree with an in-situ sling and crab for abseiling from. This is directly above, 'I Have a Cunning Plan'.

Navidad Solo		3 (HVDiff)	30mts
Start 10m L of Time Team (6) at a slightly higher level where jumbled blocks lie beneath a crinkly slab. 1/ 15m. (3)Climb the centre of the slab easily but nicely to a bulge, go between the semi detached block and a rosemary bush to a good ledge, friend and nut belays (and a secret thread!) 2/ 15m. (3+) Up and left past two rosemary bushes then direct to a ledge and belays. Abseil from the tree on the left. FA. Al Evans, (solo) 25/12/05. A continuation is essential.
	Time Team	E2 5b (6a+)	18mts
Start 20mts L of Black Adder at an isolated blunt buttress with an obvious thin crack on its R hand side. Climb to this and a hard move round the bulge on its right leads to easier ground and a good belay ledge. Scramble off left to gain the path. FA. Al Evans, Rob Lillywhite 14/Oct/2004
	Kate	VS 4c (5)	35mts
1/ 20mts. Start up the blunt buttress to the left of Bob, follow this on its left hand side to tree belays (5) 2/15mts. Move down and R to gain a leftward sloping ramp, follow this and the wall above to the large ledge. Walk R to the tree abseil of IHACP. (3+) FA. Adrian Bates, Trent Rosenbaum 14/Oct/2004
	Black Adder	VS 4b (4)	35 mts
Start 15 mts left of the 4 trunked tree at the start of 'I Have A Cunning Plan' at a shallow bay. Take the vague rib on the right of the bay to a bulge. Now climb diagonally left through the bulges to the huge ledge. Abseil off. FA. Al Evans solo 12/Oct/2004
	Bob	HS (4)	40mts
Start 2 mts left of IHACP, climb the obvious ramp, step R then L under the bulge and follow the ramp finishing left up a rib. Go across to the tree abseil descent of IHACP. FA. Rob Lillywhite (solo) 14/Oct/2004
	I Have A Cunning Plan *	3 (S 4a)	40mts
To the left of the main central wall is slabby rib behind a four trunked tree. Start in front of the tree and climb the centre of the buttress through a bulge to a ledge. Step across the gully and climb a slab until it is possible to traverse left past a cactus to a tree belay, abseil from this. FA Al Evans, solo Feb/2004
	Direct Finish	5 (HVS 4C)	40mts
Start as for IHACP but instead of stepping across the gully attack the bulge direct in a fine position FA Carol Mc Tavish (unseconded) 8/Nov/2004
The Baldrick Extension *		5+ (E1 5b)	105mts
1/ 40mts, As for I Have A Cunning Plan. 2/ 15mts, Straight up through the bulges above and trend slightly right to a small ledge and good peg and thread belay. A serious pitch. 3/ 30 mts, straight up the slabby wall to a good ledge and peg, nut and thread belay below the upper corner. 4/ 20mts, steeply up left (peg runner) into the corner system above (some care with the rock may still be needed) to good thread belays below the Talus slope. Either abseil down to IHACP (at least two 55 mt ropes required), and then abseil from the tree belay to the bottom, or slog up and descend the col. FA Al Evans, Catherine Rolfe. 6/Mar/2004
A Senior Moment **		5+ (HVS 5a)	100mts
On the main face, just right of centre is the obvious groove of Last Of The Summer Wine, Start on the blunt rib just left of this. 1/ 25mts, Climb through the bulges to an obvious ledge with a two peg belay. 2/ 25mts, Take the wall on the left with less protection than you would really like, more or less direct to another stance and peg belay. 3/ 50mts, A brilliant pitch up the headwall leading to exposed climbing on magnificent holds. FA Graham Rawcliffe, Al Evans (Alt leads) Feb/2004
Last of the Summer Wine **		5+ (E1 5a)	100mts
1/ 25mts Climb the obvious groove/ crack, mainly on the right to below a vegetated ledge, at this point; take the wall on the left to the belay as for A Senior Moment. 2/ 20mts, Traverse right to the obvious blunt white rib, climb this and the wall above to a three peg belay (abseil station) A brilliant exposed pitch. 3/ 55mts, Climb the crozzled wall left of the belay direct to an overlap, move right to the end of it and make a difficult move round it past a bush. Continue up past various cracks and corners until it is possible to step left onto a magnificently positioned white slab, delicate climbing leads to magnificent holds and a superbly exposed finish. 55mt ropes required to make the belay FA Al Evans (pitch 1), Graham Rawcliffe (pitches 2+3), Mick Ward. Feb/2004
Unconventional Lives *		5+ (HVS 5a)	75mts
Takes the big wall right of the main buttress up its left hand side 1/ 25mts Climb up the obvious depression to a good ledge on the left, then take the nice slab trending right to a stance and peg belay below the bulges. 2/ 50mts Climb up and left through the bulge then direct up the fine slab to a good ledge and thread and peg belays, either abseil off from here (abseil straight down to a good ledge below an overhang, hidden thread for next abseil) or scramble to the top and walk down the col. FA Al Evans, Helen Taylor, Annabelle Ison. 16/Feb/2004
No Pockets in Shrouds **		5 (HVS 5a)	75 mts
Cuts through the lower line of overhangs through a break at the right hand side. 1/ 25mts Climb easily up to the obvious weakness at the right of the strip roof right of UC. Pull through the roof and continue to a good ledge and peg and nut belays. 2/ 15mts Move up and left through a bulge, then step back right and direct to a good ledge and peg and friend belay. 3/ 25mts Trend left up the slabby bulges then go direct to a ledge and magnificent thread belay. 4/ 10mts traverse easily left to an in situ abseil point as for UC. Or scramble to the top and descend via the col FA Gavin Roberts, Al Evans, Graham Rawcliffe, Alt Leads. 1/Mar/2004
Days of Wine and Roses *		5+ (HVS 5a)	80 mts
Starts 15 right of No Pockets in Shrouds. 1/40mts Climb the easy slab and rib on the right to small over hang, scramble up left and belay before the overhang. Good peg and nut belay. 2/20mts Move up right through the bulges, then move left on obvious traverse line and up to belay as for No Pockets in Shrouds. 3/20mts Right and up following discontinuous cracks, then right and directly up flaky crack in head wall, then short wall to flake and thread belay. 4/ 15mts traverse easily left to an in situ abseil point as for UC. Or scramble to the top and descend via the col. FA Roger Whetton, Graham Rawcliffe, Alt Leads. 9/Mar/2004

Well to the right (east) of the central buttress is a huge orange wall, as yet unclimbed, to the right of this is an area of broken rock and then a fine pillar, marked ToB this is:-

The Tower of Babel	3 (Severe)	80 mts
Climb the front of the tower to a good ledge and belay, follow the wall above to the top of the pillar, abseil or descend the prickly gully on the west. F.A Al Evans solo 16/3/2006

Never Never Land

This is the area of rock to the west of the descent route, a complicated area, the classic route here is Peter Pan which starts from a midway ledge more or less level with the foot of Segaria South Face Central Buttress and takes the right hand side of the prominent tower.

Peter Pan ** 6a (E1 5b) 70mts

1/ 20mts Climb the slabby wall right of the prominent overhanging block and belay on the large ledge above.(5)
2/ 20mts Climb through the bulge passing an obvious horn on the right, trend right to easier ground to belay in a niche below the overhang.(5+) 3/ 30mts Step boldly out left onto the lip of the overhang, move through bulges and trend right to a slabby rib. Up this and right through another bulge then right into a crack system that leads to a ledge and two peg abseil station at the top of the rib. (6a)
FA Al Evans, Adrian Bates (Alt leads) 15/Oct/2004

Wendy * 4 (HS 4a) 70mts

1/ 20mts. Start 4 mts left of Peter Pan, keep left of the overhanging block to a shared belay with Peter Pan. (4)
2/ 15mts. Move up and left under the bulge to a ramp, follow this and belay on the right (4)
3/ Regain the ramp and trend right to a V groove. Up this then trend left and then right to the abseil station on Peter Pan at the large ledge at the top of the rib.
FA Rob Lillywhite, Chris Lilley, Trent Rosenbaum. 15/Oct/2004

Tinkerbelle 5 (VS/HVS) 40mts

1/ 20mts climb the slab 5 mts R of Peter Pan on the right of the bulge. Move left to a good ledge with peg and nut belays. (4)
2/ 20mts Move right onto the face and continue straight up to a huge ledge and thread belay, at present abseil off from here but a continuation up the rib on the right is inevitable.(5)
FA. Adrian Bates, Al Evans, (Alt Leads), Claire Allen. 14/Oct/2004

Darling 4+ (VS 4b) 50 mts

The first major buttress to the left of the footpath that leads to the top of the ridge and right of the Peter Pan / Wendy buttress. The buttress is visible on the left of the photyo on page 302 of the Costa Blanca RockFax.
1/ 15mts Climb the easy ramp on the right hand side of the buttress. Cross easy ground above. (3)
2/ 12mts Climb corner in the right hand side of the buttress up to tree and then traverse left on the ledge. (4)
3/ 20mts Climb up and left round the arete to the slab. Climb crack on left of slab. traverse left at top, below choss. (4+)
4/ Break out left. (2+)
F.A. Adrian Bates, Darrell Russell (Alt leads) 19/Oct/2005

Below Never Never Land

The first route established in this area climbs an isolated buttress directly below Peter Pan and finishes just below the ledge system of that route:

Smee 3 + (HS) 15 mts

Climb the left hand wall of the blunt buttress; go left at the ledge at two thirds height up a crack. You can easily walk off from the top or continue up one of the upper routes.
FA. Al Evans solo 12/Oct/2004

The Ticking Crocodile 5 (HVS) 50 mts

Start 40mts left of Smee at the obvious slab with bulges.
1/ 35mts Follow the slab on the R hand side of the overhangs passing two in situ peg runners. An awkward bulge leads to easier climbing to a big ledge and tree and nut belay. (5)
2/ 15mts Scramble to the top of the ledge and traverse horizontally right to the ledge at the start of Peter Pan and Wendy. You can walk off from here or continue up one of the routes from the ledge. (3)
FA Al Evans, Carol Mc Tavish ( Alt leads) 8/Nov/2004

Nana 3 (HVD) 65 mts

Start 10mts left of The Ticking Crocodile at the obvious slab left of the vegetated crack.
1/ 25mts Climb the ramp and then steepening ground above. Belay left of large block. (3)
2/ 20mts Climb up to large ledge. (3+)
3/ 20mts Walk right along the ledge and then traverse delicately right to the ledge at the start of Peter Pan and Wendy. You can walk off from here. (3)
FA Adrian Bates, Chris Haynes ( Alt leads) 25/Mar/2007

The Lost Boys 3 (Severe) 15 mts

Start Below and 30m L of Nana where a long rib throws its foot way down the hillside. Start on a glacis near the foot of this. TLB initials at bottom.
1/ 15mts. Climb pleasantly up the slab to a good ledge and thread belay. Abseil off or continue. (3)
FA. Al Evans, solo. 25/Dec/2005

Captain Hook 4+ (VS 4c) 125 mts

Start as for 'The Lost Boys'.
1/ As per 'The Lost Boys'
2/ 20mts. Climb black smears. Delicate moves up to cave with 2 thread belays. 4+ (VS 4b)
3/ 25mts. Climb up and out of cave to the left up to vegetated groove. Battle up this to large ledge with tree and block belay. 3 (VD)
4/ 20mts. Climb wall on right hand side and ramp above to belay at very large ledge. 4+ (s 4a)
5/ 35mts. Up & right back onto the main tower. Pass tree on your left. 10m above traverse left to ledge. Final ledge is 10m above this with 2 in-situ pegs for abseil. 4+ (VS 4c)
FA Chris Haynes, Adrian Bates (alt leads) 25/Mar/2007
There is another pitch still to be climbed at several grades higher than the current grade.

Santas Slabs

Some 50m L is a high (150m) area of good rock at a slabby angle. It looks like it will provide good climbing almost anywhere at about V Diff/Severe. This area is Santas Slabs.

Hogmanay 3 (Severe) 20 mts

Start at a nice slab 50m L leading to a good ledge below the headwall.
1/ From the name climb direct to the good ledge, abseil off or scramble down to the left. Or do the continuation, too hard to solo.
FA. Al Evans solo 1/Jan/2006